CLOSE COUPLING AND END DETAIL UPGRADE KIT
For Hornby ‘K’ Type and 12 wheel Pullmans.
The Pullman Body
1. First remove the buffers with a straight pull.
2. Remove the end plate.
3. Remove the bellows by gripping the top and a straight pull.
4. Separate the chassis from the body.
5. Pull out the bogies.
6 Cut the wire at least 15mm above the joint in the wire.
7. Unscrew the plate holding the draw bar in place.
8. Remove the draw bars, then remove the centring spring from the draw bars and put them some where safe.
9. Glue the T plate to the floor at the ends of the carriage. The T’ plate is to support the bottom of the carriage and keep the corridor connection perpendicular to the track.
10. Refit the body to the chassis. Make sure there is a tail of wire sticking out of the hole for the bogies.
The Corridor Connection.
11. Remove any flash and file away any imperfections from the top of the resin corridor connection.
12. Colour the resin corridor connection with a black permanent marker. If paint is used DO NOT get any paint inside the aperture as this is a close fit for the Floating End Plate.
13. Remove the lamp brackets from the floating end plates. Place the spring over the spigot at the back of the end plate and pass the spigot through the hole in the centre of the corridor connection. Push the fixing washer on to the spigot to hold the end plate in place. Allow about 0.6mm (20th) of float. Adjust the position of the fixing washer to set the end plate with an equal distance all round the corridor connection. Ensure the end plate moves smoothly in and out within the aperture of the corridor connection. Lock the fixing washer into place with a little super glue.
14. Fix the corridor connection to the ends of the carriage.
15. Select the plastic buffers to be used, reduce the shank length to 4.25mm and push them fully home into the buffer stocks. Ensure all the buffer heads are an equal distance from the buffer stocks
The Close Coupling Draw Bar.
16. Remove any flash with your finger nail and ensure the loop is smooth. Ensure the return spring hook is clear of flash.
17. Fit the the return spring, then loop the spring to the chassis and hook the draw bar into place.
18. Screw the draw bar securing plate back into place.
Check the draw bar moves freely from side to side. If the draw bar is tight then check it again for smoothness and Refit.
19. Bare the wires and twist them together, be sure to insulate them.Tuck the wires back into the body of the carriage and push the bogies back into place.
20. If ROCO auto
couplings are to be
used they will fit
directly into the
coupling pocket and
he Floating End Plates
will touch and compress in
the corridor connection when the
carriages are coupled and on straight track.
21. If the included Buck Eye couplers are to be
used then follow the instructions for them below.
The coupling pocket will need to be shortened by
1mm for the same operation of the Floating End Plate.
22. With the couplings fitted by Hornby the ability to go round radius 1
curves is allowed by the sloppy tension lock couplings.
23. With the replacement draw bar fitted the slop has been removed from the draw bars. A rigid draw bar between the carriages must be maintained to make the close coupling work correctly, but the carriages are restricted to radius 2 as the minimum curves.
24. Only Kitchen cars had the large gas tanks under the chassis, so remove them from all other types of Pullman carriage.
between close coupled carriages.
and to couple to
Do not used
Good for coupling to loco.
Good for coupling to loco.
The Buckeye Coupler
Using a small file or a scalpel carefully remove a tiny amount of plastic from this edge at the bottom of the coupling a little at a time until a pair of couplings will pass easily through each other with a minimum of side play.
Too much rotational side play will cause carriages to lock up and derail when pushed through reverse curves.
The finished job